Tuesday, September 19, 2006

ransom note‏


Hey lookie here,
wizard boy, me, has made a group email contact list so now i just click one time and it goes to all yall
let me know if you want out
micah
 
ok you get some extra as this key board is nice!
 
sunday sept 18, 2006
The rain is light and so is the wind the world seems tranquil, then unexpecditly the wind picks up, the rain turns torrential and the sound of the waves becomes defening, "o fuck" i think, "we´re camped on the edge of the beach, this bad weather has brought the tide up so high the waves are hitting the wheels of the car, this could be really bad!" The van is learching all over the place as i fumble around in the dark for my headlamp.  Fold back on of the curtains and peer into the darkness.  Instead of waves crashing into the side of the van i see grass, manacured green grass for that matter, what the hell is going on here? Didn´t we...o shit, i must have been dreaming, feeeewwww...but wait a minute Bubbles (the van) is still vibrating all of the f-in place...ahhh???  And its definately raining..and its definately... ohhh it must be the wind, i´ve got to pee any how so i open up the door and hope out, holly shit its the 80 mph gusts of wind and the completly horizontal rain thats making the van shake. 
Later that morning, Javier, the owner of the campground, informs us that was a class 3 hurricane, which narrowly misses us, that was causing all the disturbances.  Thank goodness, just a hurricane, thats all.  Jesus Maria!!!
 
sunday sept 18th, 2006
woke up early, at least early for our standards, 7am, rolled over to have a look at what the swell had done over night, yeee haaaa.  It hadn´t dropped as predicted, instead it was all still there only perfectly clean lines and zero wind.  Would have surfed right ouir front except we knew Santa Cruz would probably be on, packed up 2 sec flat and we were there.  Shit yes it was on, 10 times better then yesterday which was claimed to be, "as good as it gets here."  Rachael was keen so we were out there, managed to time the paddle out perfectly, only a couple minor duckdives necessary.  Then it became immediatly apparent that these wer not "Peanut Friendly" (waves for Rachael) waves, instead of the 3 or 4 foot they appeared from shore they were well over head.  Bang, bang, bang, bang, bang i caught 6 or 7 of my best waves of the trip so far (big take offs, glassy faces and peeling perfect, it kind of felt like we were in indo). 
 
sorry but internet times up, more next time
 
love Micah and Rachael

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