For obvious reasons the next ten minutes pass without either of us catching a wave, we are always to wide, we just can’t force ourselves to sit deep enough, it’s to scary. Then a huge wave comes. I’m sitting in the same place that’s been To wide for all the other waves but not this one. Wanting to get this thing over and done with as soon a possible I turn and go for it.
I’m looking down a vertical 6 foot face to the shimmering reef below. My momentary indecision renders me to deep and as I push my board out to stand up I’m pitched by the lip of the wave straight out into the air. Time slows…aahh how I wish I hadn’t hesitated or better yet that I’d hesitated longer and just let the wave go, but of course I didn’t and now I free fall to the bottom where I’m smashed, then picked back up by the passing wave and smashed again. Opening my eyes under water, the illuminated coral is blotted out by the white water and it is pitch black. For a moment I start to panic, but remember it doesn’t d much except use up your air more quickly. Covering my head with my arms I make the rest of my body go limp and let the wave have its way with me. Finally I’m released but unlucky for me I’ve fallen on the very first wave of a ten wave set which means 10 more thrashings. During which my boxers are ripped down to my feet and for a while I’m completely naked, getting pummeling by waves, dragged close to the rocks with only a couple feet of water between me and the urchin infested coral below. To put it mildly, I’m freaking out!! Get me out of here!!
Finally I make it back to the channel, looking up I see Silus flying along the face of a wave, not making any turns just going as fast as he can. He lets out a primal sound, part adrenalin part fear.
Now there is absolutely no way I can just paddle in, if Silus’ got a wave I’m getting one. Luckily the next set to come is of a more manageable size and I pick off a real nice one, ripping along the face it is quite the surreal sensation; I pull off just before it shuts down. That’s it, I’ve had my one wave, I don’t want another, I’m finished, so I paddle back out real wide. Silus can go for as many more as he wants, I’m gunny sit here and watch or should I say try to watch as I really can’t seem much.
Another wave come and he gets it, only he rides it to far and doesn’t pull off in time. Smash! He’s trapped on the inside like I was and unlucky for him a massive set is just starting to rip through. For the next 10 minutes I bob out there on my own, Silus is getting a royal thrashing.
The first couple of minutes pass quickly as I’m still fired up from my one wave but the longer I sit along out there the more freaked out I get. I’m so wide no wave is going to get me but off in the distance, as the swells roll past, I keep seeing something large bobbing around stirring up white water and reflecting in the moon light. I only get fleeting glimpses; certainly it is a tree branch or maybe a sea turtle but in my mind it is 100% for sure a shark. I doesn’t matter that no one every sees sharks around these parts, in my mind that is what it is. And every surfer knows once you start thinking sharky thoughts it is all over, your imagination takes over.
Fing-HAM this!! With still no Silus in sight I start paddling for land. Then all of a sudden there he is, “Holly Fing-HAM Shit! My heart is beating crazy fast! Let’s get the Fing-HAM out of here!” are the first words out of his mouth. No need to convince me!
We book it for shore, only not wanting to get anywhere near the rocks we’re force to struggle for 15 minutes against a ragging rip.
Exhausted, terrified and filled with adrenalin we finally make it to the beach.
Hands down we both agree it was the scariest thing either of us has ever done but that it was also awesome and we are glad we did it but that we won’t be going again anytime soon.
So if you are going night surfing don’t bother asking me to come along, I’m happier nuzzled up in bed!!
LOVE US
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